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Had been browsing the web for good speaker designs and was intrigued by the concept of horn speakers. Thought I would go ahead and make one just to see if the claims on the web were true or not (very high efficiency, no cross over distortion, great sound in th mid range, and bass up to 30-50 Hz without woofers).
The designs on frugal-horn.com seemed well thought out and the family seemed to be good performers especially after the glowing reviews on equivalent speakers. I was planning on recycling drivers (3 inch or 4 inch speakers) that I already had so therefore selected the least wide Spawn speakers. The picture shows how the speakers turned out. Wife likes em!
Will post a video later on. Printed the out. I needed 18 inch wide panels for the sides and 5 1/8th inch wides for the baffles and dividers etc.
Closest were 16 inch wide and 5.5 inch wide. So decided to get enough of the 5.5 inch white MDF panels to make one speaker. Also bought some nice plywood and Lowes cut it for me to 18 inches wide. Was simpler to stick to the original 18 inch dimensions otherwise I would have to recalculate the internal baffle dimensions. I cut the 18 inch wide panels to a height of 6 feet from it's original height of 8 feet.
I then drew the locations of the internal baffles onto the plywood panel. Then drilled 1 mm dia. Holes though the panel so that I could attach nails to hold the baffles.
Got busy with the glue bottle and clamps and screws to assemble the the back, top, bottom and front panels (baffled) onto one 18 inch by 72 inch side panel. Used biscuits to hook the panels together which makes the final assembly quite a bit easier. You can see the biscuit slots in the left most speaker. Even with biscuits is is important that the panels are perpendicular otherwise the final large panel will not fit on top. While the glue was curing, I cut the 5.5 inch wide panels into 38 pieces based on the handy table included in the plans.
This was a bit of a work as only had a handheld circular saw. Glued the internal labyrinth of baffles in. And painted exposed surfaces with black paint. Let everything dry and cure overnight. Could not wait to see if these speakers actually performed as stated so wired an RCA socket on one end and a 3 inch speaker that I removed from a Creative Labs D80 bluetooth speaker box.
The original speaker output on the amplified Creative bluetooth D80 unit was extended with a longer wire to which I soldered an RCA plug. Know this is not the ideal speaker driver but it was good enough for a test. Without the second side panel, the sound was not too bad! And not that different from the second speaker still in the creative box. This got me a bit worried. Anyway clamped the other panel on temporarily to see if the sound was different, and yes, it was, there was more bass and more 'presence', more gravitas!
So even with mediocre speaker drivers there was a bit of an improvement. Ok, this might be worth putting more effort into. Based on the above informal test, I decided to use speakers that I had removed from a Fostex SPA11 powered speaker unit. Expanded the hole in the front panel to fit the speaker (used a jigsaw to cut the hole). Stuffed the speaker chamber only with polyester stuffing to minimize sound reflections.
And permanently attached the side panel with expanding polyurethane glue and tons of clamps, weights etc. To really push the side panel onto the baffles. Also applied a few strategic screws to hold and clamp the side panel in place. I did something stupid, directly attached the speaker to the iPhone head phone output. Yes, without an amplifier, and the sound was nice and loud. Did a bit of testing using an oscillator app on the iPhone.
Could hear from about 40Hz to about 16KHz. The picture shows my crude cutting set up. The baffles with the trial speaker attached. Close ups of the stuffing behind the speaker. Temporarily placing the side panel for testing! After the speaker bodies were assembled I attached black velvet across the fronts of the speakers covering up the horn openings.
As was using scrap velvet left from a previous project that was not big enough had to use two pieces for each speaker, one piece covering the top half of the speaker and the other piece covering the bottom half, with the seam in the middle. Attached the velvet with glue and staples. I then attached standard-of-the-shelf 0.75 in x 1.5 inch wooden strips to the top, to the sides (to hide the velvet edge), and the bottom of the box for additional support. I used standard 6 feet long strips from Lowes. These projected out below the bottom of the speaker box forming support feet.
The diagram will make a bit more sense. The left three boxes show how I added the velvet fabric. The right three boxes, how the wooden strips were added. Finally, added molding on the top and bottom, stained, soldered the speaker clips to one end of lamp wire and an RCA jack to the other after confirming continuity with a multimeter.
Added the driver. 95% of the cost of commercial box speaker manufacturing is in the box.
5% is in the drivers. An exponential folded horn is probably the most efficient design and the most difficult to manufacture.There are a number of reports that state stepping the sides to replicate a folded exponential horn makes no perceivable difference to the bass frequencies. The horn design you used is a proven design and will provide more bass drive for a lower power than a standard sub-woofer box. What will improve the sound is the box material.
Regardless of the price, commercial manufacturer's will not use plywood because the material is too resonant and too difficult to quality control the bass. The best material is HDF. If you cannot find HDF; use MDF or particle board. Instead of using stepped corner pieces, an easier method is cut the corner pieces so one piece fits at a 45 degree angle and it cuts down on the overall weight of the box.
A sub-woofer box will not improve the bass response, but it may give you a honky bass that a lot of people perceive as lower bass. You could use the same box and use a better quality driver, try Parts Express, that would give you a far superior sound than any sub-woofer design. You can also try inserting anti-resonant material at the mouth of the horn.
One of the two speakers has the internal baffles, speaker bottom, top, back and speaker front panels of MDF. Had a pile of ready-to-use 5.5 inch wide primed MDF 6 feet long panels from Lowes (typically used in shelving).
The left and right side of this speaker is plywood. The second speaker is all plywood. So would be a good way to test if MDF has an impact on sound quality by comparing the two.
Folded Horn Speaker Kit
On the stepped corner, guess it attentuates high frequency more effectively than a smooth panel so you get more bass reflected out. I hooked up a cheap T amplifier (and the sound quality us stunning and loud (from 10 W RMS)! Do not see a need for a sub-woofer. Honestly, am really loving these speakers. Am toying with the idea of making another pair with 8 inch drivers that I had bought a while back from guess what - Parts Express!
Folded Horn Speaker Design Software Download
These are not Fostex but some other full ranges with a wheezer cone that I was going to use for in wall speakers. Keycraft mc server. I have seen some well done acrylic cabinets, including at least one folded horn design previously. The 'true audiophile' will not stand for the use of such material for dozens of reasons. Mainly, rigidity and unwanted coloration from resonance. But, speakers are kind of a personal thing.
Horn Speaker Design Calculator
As far as I'm concerned, if you want them, make but. Just always remember that there is time proven reason for component selection, materials, and construction methods for those who take such things in esoteric doses.